Margaret

Great White Sharks!

No Napoleon today—we went Great White Shark cage-diving instead.  Here’s one of the seventeen friends we made. He’s about twelve feet long, and looked mighty hungry, although thousands of seals were raising pups on a nearby island. I figured they’d probably be much tastier than me.

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Remote St Helena

It’s the tiny white speck in the south Atlantic. Few places on this planet become more remote over time, but St Helena has.  In 1816, when Napoleon was exiled there, as many as a thousand ships a year called at the island.  Back then, before the Suez Canal, it was a stopover for ships from

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New Places

When I was in fourth grade, I had to do a project on my home state, which my teacher, the ever-rigid Mrs. Wall, defined as a person’s birthplace.  I was annoyed:  I had been born in Maryland because that’s where Bethesda Naval Hospital is.  At the time my Navy family lived in Virginia.  I felt

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Symmetry at Brienne

I’ve been thinking back about my visit to Brienne, the French country town where Napoleon attended his first military school from age nine to fifteen.  By all accounts he grew up isolated, mocked for his accent and poverty.   Even his politics brought derision as this drawing—the earliest known Napoleonic caricature—shows.  In it, a fellow student

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The French ♡ USA

We Americans think the French don’t like us, and, in turn, we portray them as ungrateful for our aid during the World Wars.  Remember Freedom Fries in 2003?  Perhaps, we should apologize for that one since sadly they were right about Iraqi WMDs. A quick look around Paris tells you the French find kinship in

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Toothbrush and Slippers

We’re home from our March travels to Paris and Corsica.   First, I had to catch up all I’d missed while away; now I’m struggling to prepare for our month-long St Helena voyage in May.  Meanwhile, there’s tons more to write about Paris and Corsica.  So stick with me—the adventure has just begun! One of my

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Sea and Sky

I arrived in Corsica believing Napoleon had grown up poor within limiting confines.  At twenty-six, how could he have dared to whisk an army across the snowcapped Alps? How could anyone with few worldly experiences have sailed off blithely to conquer Egypt? I wondered, as so many have, how this island boy of narrow prospects

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Ajaccio Cathedral

Ajaccio’s cathedral, dedicated to the Virgin Mary and built in 1593, is steps from the Bonaparte house.  Tradition says it was here on August 15, 1769, Letizia Bonaparte felt sudden labor pains and rushed home, giving birth to Napoleon on a first floor sofa before she could reach her upstairs bedroom.  The church hasn’t changed

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